We breed our Boerboels based on a "whole dog philosophy" temperament, movement, structure and overall health. Understanding that a particular Boerboel or breeding pair is more than just an appraisal score, certain health test or temperament attributions. We look at each individual as a whole (including their family members) and make decisions based on the bigger picture. We do strive to improve upon our boerboel family with each breeding. One good attribute is no good without the other. Breeding is as much of an art (or eye), as it is a science, and balance is very important. We encourage everyone to do extensive research before deciding if a boerboel is right for you and your family. Noxterra puppies/dogs are paired with the right families depending on the needs of the individuals and are a lifelong commitment. Continuity of care is very important to us. Once you have a Noxterra puppy/dog we consider you part of the family. Below is some basic, honest information regarding boerboels and care. Please take the time to read it. Don't forget to check the links at the bottom of the page. Feel free to contact us if you have any questions or concerns. We strive to do our best to help out.
Boerboels are a giant breed of dog. While they are healthy for a Molosser breed, they are not exempt from the issues we see with any other giant breed of dog. Hip dysplasia, elbow dysplasia, heart disease, degenerative myelopathy, chryptochidism, bite malocclusion, allergies, cruciate ligament disease, entropian, ectropian, cancer, wobblers, epilepsy, immunological diseases and many more surprises. Regardless of the many efforts that many breeders take, each individual puppy is at a potential risk for some sort of ailment (even if it is a "textbook" breeding). There are no perfect dogs/boerboels, if you do a good job thoroughly researching your pedigree, you will find things you don’t like and don’t want. Everything is genetic in dogs, it's the inheritability index (likelihood a puppy will inherit something) that is important. This is a reality of breeding giant breed dogs. No one has a crystal ball, unfortunately. We try to make the best breeding decisions to avoid these types of things. We truly do care for each puppy and their owners.
Boerboel temperaments do have some diversity. Each dog is an individual. The level of energy/excitability varies, as does the drive. Some are more wary of strangers than others. Most of them are very amenable, though not all of them. Generally Boerboels are intelligent. They can be dominant but often times in a "sneakier" way. Doing things like placing their paws on you, sitting on your feet, mouthing, standing in your way etc. A few things that stand out pretty consistently with Boerboels are trainability, loyalty and an innate urge to stay very close to you. Boerboels do not always do well with livestock (esp. poultry). That does take proper training and introduction. Some Boerboels have too high of a prey drive and will never take well to livestock. Those particular Boerboels may be better suited to hunting or activities such as lure coursing. Regarding their natural guardian instinct; not all Boerboels are naturally good guard dogs. The only way to be truly certain of their guardian ability, is to have them tested by a professional.
It's not unheard of to have a Boerboel (that has been properly socialized as a pup) become completely intolerant of strangers, upon maturity. Some boerboels are not socialites.
Questions (regarding temperament) to ask yourself before getting a boerboel puppy: If you end up with an anti-social boerboel, are you prepared to isolate the dog from strangers? Do you want a dog you can take any and everywhere?
Same-sex dog aggression is not uncommon in Boerboels. If you are looking to add another boerboel to your family we highly suggest getting the opposite sex. Females tend to be more affectionate, intelligent and obedient. Males can take longer to mentally mature and are usually a bit more aloof. Our puppies are placed keeping temperament in consideration with the new owners.
Boerboels thrive on positive reinforcement training. Although they are considered a dominant dog, they want nothing more than to please you (usually). Focus on rewarding good/wanted behavior. The key is to not overreact to unwanted behavior. Keep treats handy and be generous with them. Do not use large treats. We buy small ones and break them in half. A treat should not take very long to chew. Tasty treats (we use cheap cut up hotdogs or anything safe that tastes really good) are great if you're having trouble with a particular aspect of training. We highly recommend taking your Boerboel puppy to basic obedience training. Not necessarily for the training aspect (if you have a Boerboel you should already know how to train basic obedience) but for the structured socializing and bonding. Boerboel puppies that go to basic training classes, tend to do better later on. Obviously socializing a Boerboel puppy is very important. Take it slow and always watch to make sure he/she is treated with respect during the process. This will ensure a positive experience for your boerboel.
Take your puppy to the vet for monthly weigh-ins. Bring treats and make it a
positive experience each time.
You'll kill three birds with one stone; it'll get them acquainted with the vet, socialized with strangers and you'll know how much they weigh (that'll help guide you with feeding also). You are your dogs advocate. Learn your dogs body language. Do not push them in situations that make them uncomfortable. Make sure they are
given proper respect when approached by strangers, as well as family members. And don't be afraid to speak
up on their behalf.
Boerboel Natural Nutrition - Raw Food - The Ultimate Diet
According to their physiology, dogs are carnivores and in the wild, no animal cooks its food. They have teeth and claws designed to catch, rip and tear flesh. They have eyes in the front of their heads, enabling them to focus on prey animals, most of which have eyes on the sides of their heads to watch out for attacks from carnivores.
Your domesticated animal needs species-appropriate nutrition to achieve optimum health. Veterinary research is focused on the diagnosis and pharmaceutical treatment of
diseases, with little attention to exploring diet as a potential cause of disease or as a component of treatment protocol. We simply assume that the pet food industry has done the necessary research
and is thus providing us with "optimum" diets for our dogs. Even with the many changes that humans have made to the exteriors of our domesticated dogs, they still retain their original carnivorous
Logic and common sense are critical to good science. Animals, just like people, are still using digestive systems that evolved thousands of years ago, systems designed to provide us with nutrients derived from wholesome foods. Our companion friends, designed as meat eaters, rely on us to use some logic and common sense in caring for them. But make no mistake, being a carnivore does not mean that our dogs should eat an all-meat diet. Carnivores such as our dogs have evolved to derive their required nutrients mainly from eating other animals, including those animals' muscles meat, bones, organs and stomach contents (vegetables) - all raw.
A carnivore's body has been designed to derive its requisite nutrients from raw food. Since few of us
are willing or able to provide whole prey animals for our dog to eat, making a well-designed homemade
diet of raw foods is just as good.
BASIC FOOD GROUPS FOR DOGS
1. Raw Meat and Raw Organ Meat
In this group, we have protein foods including beef, fish, poultry, lamb, rabbit, etc. This food group includes both muscle and organ meat. Meat can have a high fat content. If the possible bacteria content in raw meat alarms you, remember what species you are feeding it to. Dogs' digestive systems have evolved over millions of years to obtain the nutrients necessary for good health from raw meat. Their digestive system is short and acidic, perfect for handling bacteria. And you know how much some of them relish something old and really gross! Canus lupus eats not only fresh prey, but also old buried meat that is teeming with bacteria.
Raw meat provides the following species-appropriate array of nutrients - all in a form with high bio-availibility:
Amino acids and protein * enzymes * antioxidants * vitamins A, C, D, E, K, B1, B2, B3, B5, B6, and B12 * biotin
* choline * folic acid * inositol * iodine * pantothenic acid * PABA * fatty acids * calcium * phosphorus
* magnesium * iron * potassium * chromium * copper * manganese * selenium * sodium * sulphur
* vanadium * zinc * coenzyme10
2. Raw Bone
Dogs have relied on eating raw meaty bones as a superior source of nutrients for millions of years. A prey animal's body consists of about 25% bone. Remember always feed bones raw. Cooking the bone changes its molecular structure, making it splinter and difficult to digest. Cooked bone is very dangerous - please do not ever feed it to your animal. Raw edible bones offer wonderful nutrition in a form that is very natural and usable for your dog (they help keep teeth clean). Raw bones are different to bonemeal, which is a cooked and processed product, often high in lead content; it cannot match the nutrients found in raw, edible, meaty bones. Edible bone is bone that your dog can consume completely. Raw poultry bones, such as chicken and turkey, are munched and crunched up quite easily. Raw poultry necks, backs, head or feet will do nicely. They are full of edible cartilage.
Excluding raw bones from your pet's diet would be a terrible mistake. Raw bones provide nutritious marrow, amino acids/protein, essential fatty acids, fiber, enzymes, antioxidants, and a vast array of species-appropriate minerals and vitamins, all in soluble form.
3. Raw Vegetables
Vegetables include plants that grow above and below the ground such as: green leafy vegetables, asparagus, broccoli, cabbage, cauliflower, celery, chard, dandelion greens, dark leaf lettuce, kale, okra, parsley, sprouts, squash, pumpkin, etc. (above) and: sweet potatoes, yams, carrots, etc. (below).However, these vegetables must be in a digestible form, just as they would be in a prey animal's stomach. Vegetables must be thoroughly pulped. It is best to leave out potatoes, onions and rhubarb. Limit or avoid raw legumes (peas and beans), but do use their sprouted seeds. Make sure that there is only a low level of the starchy vegetables like pumpkin, and not a preponderance of the sugary vegetables such as carrots.
Raw vegetables provide the following nutrients:
Enzymes * antioxidants * beta-cerotene * carbohydrates * fiber * phytochemicals * vitamins A, B1, B2, B3, B5, B6, C, D, E and K * boron * choline * folic acid * inositol * iodine * PABA * pantothenic acid * calcium * chromium * copper * iron * iodine * magnesium * manganese * phosphorus * potassium * silicon * sodium * sulfur * selenium.
4. Raw Fruit
Use whatever fruit is in season and as wide a range as possible. The fruit should be well ripened to overripe, but not rotten. Use raw whole apples, oranges, pears, bananas, berries, papaya, apricots, or plums (without the stone), mangoes, and kiwi fruit. Raw fruits are chock-full of essential nutrients such as: enzymes; nutraceuticals; phytochemicals; antioxidants; vitamins (C); minerals; and essential fatty acids.
a) 55% raw bone and meat (a combination of any of the following: chicken heads and feat
* beef or pork lung * heart * spleen * liver * throat.
b) 10% raw fat ( any chicken, beef and or pork fat - not the expensive fats - obtained from any
abattoir or local butcher)
c) 35% raw green leafy vegetables (not unions, potatoes and rhubarb)
Grind vegetables to a pulp and then mix with rest and grind like coarse mince meat.
Feed once per day for 6 days. 7th day only a raw bone (small puppies 3 times per day and puppies from
3 to 6 months twice per day.) De-worm puppies once per month until 1 year age.
FOODS TO AVOID:
Dairy products - Humans are the only animals that choose to consume milk after weaning.
Grain - Carbohydrates or energy from grains is not required by dogs. Fats are their best, species appropriate source of energy, and they are also able to derive energy needs from protein.
Raw salmon or any suspect fish - it must be tested for salmonella poisoning.
Yeast - it is a fungus, and most dogs cannot tolerate it. It can unbalance your dog's calcium/phosphorus ratio and can also lead to many health problems.
How much raw food to feed and how often to feed your Boerboel raw food
Puppies may be fed three times per day from three weeks until four to six months old, then twice daily from four to six months old until one year of age, and once daily after one year of age. Boerboels may need to be fed twice daily during growth spurts from one to three years of age. Boerboels over one year of age should fast, or rest their digestive systems, one day per week. Boerboels under one year of age may fast half a day once per week. Carnivores are not grazing animals who should eat continually throughout the day. Digestion requires a lot of the carnivore's body energy, and an adequate break between meals is necessary to use that energy for healing and other body functions. Do not feed so much that the stomach becomes over extended. Do not let your pup becomes obese. You will quickly learn how much to feed your boerboel. If your dog is large and obese feed less. If your dog is skinny and feeble feed more. If your dog is pregnant or has a litter she will need more food.
Many older pets have turned back the clock when switched to the Ultimate Raw Food Diet. It's never too late for your pet to brim over with good health.
With the Ultimate Diet you may see these results:
Exceptional muscle tone * Shiny luxurious coat * Healthy skin, bones and teeth * Clear, bright eyes * Small, firm stools * Playfulness * A happy, healthy attitude.
Here a decent recipe for the BARF diet:
60 % turkey heads or chicken heads and feet (the bone and meat ratio is perfect)
10 % organ meat of chicken, pork, beef or turkey (like heart, spleen, liver, lung, kidney)
10 % fat of chicken, beef or turkey
15 % vegetables like little pumpkin and carrots, beans and lots of green vegetable leafs, also little beetroot. (no potato, union and rhubarb)
5% fruit - it can be little over ripe
First grind the vegetable and fruit to a pulp. Then grind vegetable fruit pulp and the rest together with a coarse grinder. For the turkey heads and chicken heads and feet you need a rather strong grinder. You can freeze in portions. Thaw to room temperature before use. Never cook or microwave the food. After thaw throw the juice that forms over the food.
Some more sound advice to help you decide: CLICK HERE
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